Islanders are always the kindest people in the world, and I met none anywhere kinder than the good hearts of this place. The people of the Azores are not a very rich community. The burden of taxes is heavy, with scant privileges in return, the air they breathe being about the only thing that is not taxed. The mother-country does not even allow them a port of entry for a foreign mail service. A packet passing never so close with mails for Horta must deliver them first in Lisbon, ostensibly to be fumigated, but really for the tariff from the packet. My own letters posted at Horta reached the United States six days behind my letter from Gibraltar, mailed thirteen days later.
The day after my arrival at Horta was the feast of a great saint. Boats loaded with people came from other islands to celebrate at Horta, the capital, or Jerusalem, of the Azores. The deck of the Spray was crowded from morning till night with men, women, and children. On the day after the feast a kindhearted native harnessed a team and drove me a day over the beautiful roads all about Fayal, “because,” said he, in broken English, “when I was in America and couldn’t speak a word of English, I found it hard till I met someone who seemed to have time to listen to my story, and I promised my good saint then that if ever a stranger came to my country I would try to make him happy.” Unfortunately, this gentleman brought along an interpreter, that I might “learn more of the country.” The fellow was nearly the death of me, talking of ships and voyages, and of the boats he had steered, the last thing in the world I wished to hear. He had sailed out of New Bedford, so he said, for “that Joe Wing they call ‘John.’ ” My friend and host found hardly a chance to edge in a word. Before we parted my host dined me with a cheer that would have gladdened the heart of a prince, but he was quite alone in his house. “My wife and children all rest there,” said he, pointing to the churchyard across the way. “I moved to this house from far off,” he added, “to be near the spot, where I pray every morning.”
I remained four days at Fayal, and that was two days more than I had intended to stay. It was the kindness of the islanders and their touching