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nydus/Sailing Alone Around the WorldPublic

A sailor gives his account how he completed the first solo sailing voyage around the world.

Page 88 of 211
Table of Contents

IX

through the night for the pleasure alone of seeing her electric lights, a pleasing sight in contrast to the ordinary Fuegian canoe with a brand of fire in it. The sloop was the first under way, but the Colombia , soon following, passed, and saluted as she went by. Had the captain given me his steamer, his company would have been no worse off than they were two or three months later. I read afterward, in a late California paper, “The Colombia will be a total loss.” On her second trip to Panama she was wrecked on the rocks of the California coast.

The Spray was then beating against wind and current, as usual in the strait. At this point the tides from the Atlantic and the Pacific meet, and in the strait, as on the outside coast, their meeting makes a commotion of whirlpools and combers that in a gale of wind is dangerous to canoes and other frail craft.

A few miles farther along was a large steamer ashore, bottom up. Passing this place, the sloop ran into a streak of light wind, and then⁠—a most remarkable condition for strait weather⁠—it fell entirely calm. Signal fires sprang up at once on all sides, and then more than twenty canoes hove in sight, all heading for the Spray . As they came within hail, their savage crews cried, “ Amigo yammerschooner,” “ Anclas aquí ,” “ Bueno puerto aquí ,” and like scraps of Spanish mixed with their own jargon. I had no thought of anchoring in their “good port.” I hoisted the sloop’s flag and fired a gun, all of which they might construe as a friendly salute or an invitation to come on. They drew up in a semicircle, but kept outside of eighty yards, which in self-defense would have been the death-line.

In their mosquito fleet was a ship’s boat stolen probably from a murdered crew. Six savages paddled this rather awkwardly with the blades of oars which had been broken off. Two of the savages standing erect wore sea-boots, and this sustained the suspicion that they had fallen upon some luckless ship’s crew, and also added a hint that they had already visited the Spray ’s deck, and would now, if they could, try her

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