In two hours from Reykjavík we arrived at the burgh of Gufunes, called aðalkirkja , or principal church. There was nothing remarkable here but a few houses, scarcely enough for a German hamlet.

Hans stopped here half an hour. He shared with us our frugal breakfast; answering my uncle’s questions about the road and our resting place that night with merely yes or no, except when he said “Gardär.”

I consulted the map to see where Gardär was. I saw there was a small town of that name on the banks of the Hvalfjord, four miles from Reykjavík. I showed it to my uncle.

“Four miles only!” he exclaimed; “four miles out of twenty-eight. What a nice little walk!”

He was about to make an observation to the guide, who without answering resumed his place at the head, and went on his way.