XXXI

Devonshire lives near. I often see his footmen lounging at the back gate; and the Duke of Wellington’s house is not far off. Such sights as I saw, my dear! It was as good as Punch, for there were fat dowagers rolling about in their red and yellow coaches, with gorgeous Jeameses in silk stockings and velvet coats, up behind, and powdered coachmen in front. Smart maids, with the rosiest children I ever saw; handsome girls, looking half asleep; dandies, in queer English hats and lavender kids, lounging about, and tall soldiers, in short red jackets and muffin caps stuck on one side, looking so funny I longed to sketch them. “Rotten Row means ‘ Route de Roi ,’ or the king’s way; but now it’s more like a riding-school than anything else. The horses are splendid, and the men, especially the grooms, ride well; but the women are stiff, and bounce, which isn’t according to our rules. I longed to show them a tearing American gallop, for they trotted solemnly up and down, in their scant habits and high hats, looking like the women in a toy Noah’s Ark. Everyone rides⁠—old men, stout ladies, little children⁠—and the young folks do a deal of flirting here; I saw a pair exchange rosebuds, for it’s the thing to wear one in the buttonhole, and I thought it rather a nice little idea. “In the p.m. to Westminster Abbey; but don’t expect me to describe it, that’s impossible⁠—so I’ll only say it was sublime! This evening we are going to see Fechter, which will be an appropriate end to the happiest day of my life. “Midnight. “It’s very late, but I can’t let my letter go in the morning without telling you what happened last evening. Who do