After this invention there was no longer Number One, Two, and Three Grade⁠—there was only Number One Grade. The packers were always originating such schemes⁠—they had what they called “boneless hams,” which were all the odds and ends of pork stuffed into casings; and “California hams,” which were the shoulders, with big knuckle-joints, and nearly all the meat cut out; and fancy “skinned hams,” which were made of the oldest hogs, whose skins were so heavy and coarse that no one would buy them⁠—that is, until they had been cooked and chopped fine and labeled “head cheese”!

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