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Travel Essays
On the Enjoyment of Unpleasant Places

Table of Contents

Travel Essays p. 1

An Inland Voyage p. 3

To Sir Walter Grindlay Simpson, Bart. pp. 4–6

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Preface to the First Edition pp. 7–9

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Antwerp to Boom pp. 10–18

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On the Willebroek Canal pp. 19–28

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The Royal Sport Nautique pp. 29–39

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At Maubeuge pp. 40–49

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On the Sambre Canalised: To Quartes pp. 50–59

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Pont-sur-Sambre: We Are Pedlars pp. 60–69

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Pont-sur-Sambre: The Travelling Merchant pp. 70–80

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On the Sambre Canalised: To Landrecies pp. 81–88

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At Landrecies pp. 89–96

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Sambre and Oise Canal: Canal Boats pp. 97–107

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The Oise in Flood pp. 108–120

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Origny Sainte-Benoîte: A By-Day pp. 121–132

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Origny Sainte-Benoîte: The Company at Table pp. 133–142

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Down the Oise: To Moy pp. 143–152

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La Fère of Cursed Memory pp. 153–164

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Down the Oise: Through the Golden Valley pp. 165–168

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Noyon Cathedral pp. 169–176

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Down the Oise: To Compiègne pp. 177–180

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At Compiègne pp. 181–189

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Changed Times pp. 190–200

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Down the Oise: Church Interiors pp. 201–213

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Précy and the Marionnettes pp. 214–234

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Back to the World pp. 235–237

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Epilogue to An Inland Voyage pp. 238–277

Edinburgh p. 278

I pp. 279–292

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II pp. 293–306

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III pp. 307–317

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IV pp. 318–330

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V pp. 331–364

VII pp. 365–368

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VIII pp. 369–382

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IX pp. 383–395

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X pp. 396–411

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Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes pp. 412–413

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A Mountain Town in France pp. 414–436

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Velay pp. 437–478

Upper Gévaudan pp. 479–508

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Our Lady of the Snows pp. 509–549

Upper Gévaudan (Continued) pp. 550–566

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The Country of the Camisards pp. 567–653

The Amateur Emigrant p. 654

The Second Cabin pp. 655–668

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Early Impressions pp. 669–686

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Steerage Scenes pp. 687–704

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Steerage Types pp. 705–725

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The Sick Man pp. 726–745

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The Stowaways pp. 746–772

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Personal Experience and Review pp. 773–793

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New York pp. 794–812

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Across the Plains p. 813

Leaves from the Notebook of an Emigrant Between New York and San Francisco pp. 814–842

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The Emigrant Train pp. 843–856

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The Plains of Nebraska pp. 857–864

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The Desert of Wyoming pp. 865–881

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Fellow-Passengers pp. 882–889

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Despised Races pp. 890–897

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To the Golden Gates pp. 898–906

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The Old and New Pacific Capitals pp. 907–942

San Francisco pp. 943–959

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The Silverado Squatters pp. 960–969

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In the Valley pp. 970–1008

With the Children of Israel pp. 1009–1045

The Act of Squatting pp. 1046–1066

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The Hunter’s Family pp. 1067–1085

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The Sea Fogs pp. 1086–1097

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The Toll House pp. 1098–1107

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A Starry Drive pp. 1108–1116

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Episodes in the Story of a Mine pp. 1117–1138

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Toils and Pleasures pp. 1139–1162

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Fontainebleau p. 1163

I pp. 1164–1174

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II pp. 1175–1180

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III pp. 1181–1187

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IV pp. 1188–1195

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VI pp. 1196–1198

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VII pp. 1199–1202

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The Coast of Fife pp. 1203–1229

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The Education of an Engineer pp. 1230–1249

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Cockermouth and Keswick pp. 1250–1252

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Cockermouth pp. 1253–1258

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An Evangelist pp. 1259–1263

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Another pp. 1264–1265

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Last of Smethurst pp. 1266–1271

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An Autumn Effect pp. 1272–1316

A Winter’s Walk in Carrick and Galloway pp. 1317–1338

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Forest Notes p. 1339

On the Plain pp. 1340–1348

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In the Season pp. 1349–1354

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Idle Hours pp. 1355–1362

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A Pleasure-Party pp. 1363–1374

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The Woods in Spring pp. 1375–1383

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Morality pp. 1384–1392

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Davos in Winter pp. 1393–1399

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Health and Mountains pp. 1400–1408

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Alpine Diversions pp. 1409–1417

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The Stimulation of the Alps pp. 1418–1426

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Roads pp. 1427–1443

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On the Enjoyment of Unpleasant Places pp. 1444–1463

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Endnotes pp. 1464–1468

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On the Enjoyment of Unpleasant Places

1874 Published in Essays of Travel , 1905 .

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